|
WINEMAKERS GLOSSARY
Compiled by Don Schiller & The Purple Foot Wine Club
Most chemicals have a limited shelf life. Best advice, buy chemicals for the
quantity of wine you are making, or enough for one season and properly dispose
of after the season is done. Start out fresh next year. ALL MEASUREMENTS, WHERE
PROVIDED, ARE APPROXIMATE AND MAY BE DIFFERENT BETWEEN BRANDS. SEE PACKAGE
DIRECTIONS FOR FULL INFORMATION.
ACID BLEND - Mixture of the tartaric, malic and citric acids. Used in wines
needing additional acid. Test the acid level before adding any type of acids.
ASCORBIC ACID - Used as an antioxidant or anti browning agent. Used in making
apple wine. This is not vitamin C tablets.
BENTONITE - Fining agent made primarily of clay. May reduce the color in reds
or rose' wines. Harder to work with than some other fining agents. Mix in
blender with water. Let stand 24 hours, shake well, then add to wine. Use 1-2
tsp. to 5 gallons.
BRIX - In simple form, brix is a hydrometer scale used in measuring the sugar
content of a solution at a given temperature. Starting brix when making wine is
about 21 degrees depending on wine type.
CALCIUM CARBONATE (Precipitated Chalk) - Used to reduce acid in wines or
must. Reacts more with tartaric acid. Does not cold stabilize well. May leave a
taste in the wine. Generally not suggested for use if alternates can be used.
3.8 gr. per gal, 19 gr. to 5 gal, 3 tsp. to 5 gal.
CAMPDEN TABLETS - Easy to use. Usually one or two crushed tablets per gallon to sterilize must (wait 24 hours before adding yeast). Helps prevent oxidation. Can use one crushed tablet per gallon at each racking. Always disolve before stirring in must or wine.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) - Carbon dioxide is a gas produced by the process of
yeast converting sugar into alcohol. As the CO2 is produced, it rests on the
surface of the wine helping to reduce oxygen from getting into the wine. CO2 is
also used to 'top off' wine, or adding CO2 to the top of the carboy to replace
oxygen that may have gotten into the carboy. CO2 is also used by some winemakers
to move the wine when racking, or to push the wine when filtering.
CITRIC ACID - Helps prevent iron hazes. 1 tsp=4.3 gr.
COLD STABILIZATION - Cold stabilizing reduces the acid level, and will reduce
or eliminate the crystals forming when cooling wine in the refrigerator. Keeping
wine in a 35 degree temperature for two weeks will drop out tartaric acid in the
form of crystals reducing the acid level of the wine. Keep wine dark.
COPPER SULFATE - Used to remove hydrogen sulfite (H2S) from wine. Use when
fermentation is finished, but only as a last resort if racking wine does not
eliminate the problem.
FILTERING - Filtration removes fragments of fruit, possible bacteria and
yeast cells. This 'cleaning up' helps to improve taste, appearance and
durability. Filtration enhances the quality of the wine. Filtration is commonly
done by pressing the wine through filter pads which retain the solids. Filter
systems are available in many different types.
FINING - Clearing the wine by chemical or non mechanical means. Certain types
of cloudiness or haze may appear in wine. Each type has a type of additive that
work to clear the haze. Types of common fining agents include Bentonite, and
Sparkolloid. Egg whites have also been used in fining wine. See Finning Chart
for additional information.
GELATIN - Finning agent to reduce tannins and astringency. Can over strip.
Use 1 package or less dissolved in water.
GLYCERIN - If the wine is 'thin' a couple oz. of glycerin gives the
impression of a wine with more body. Glycerin will also add some sweetness to
wines. It can be used with sugar syrup to sweeten wine.
HYDROGEN SULFITE - A gas produced by yeast causing the 'rotten egg' smell.
More often produced at warmer fermentation temperatures. Often removed by
racking the wine. If severe, can be removed by copper sulfite as a last resort.
HYDROMETER - A glass bulb device used to measure the specific gravity (S.G.)
of juice or wine. The sweeter the liquid, the higher the hydrometer will float
and the higher the specific gravity. The wine making hydrometer has three
scales, specific gravity, brix and potential alcohol. The suggested starting
point for brix is about 21, specific gravity is about 1.085. This will give you
a wine of about 12% alcohol. The desired finished wine will be your guide for
the actual starting level.
ISINGLASS - Gentle fining agent. Settles yeast in white wines. Doesn't work
in reds. Use 4 oz. liquid to 5 gallon.
MALIC ACID - Found naturally in apple wine. Generally not used as an additive
to most wines unless in acid blend. It is most susceptible to problems like
malo-lactic fermentation.
OAK (CHIPS OR SHAVINGS) - Oak chips or shavings adds an oak flavor to wines.
Used instead of oak barrels. Use about 3 oz of chips per 5 gallons of wine. Put
chips in nylon bag with a weight to hold the chips into wine. Chips produce
greatest oak flavor in 1st week, but can be left in longer for additional oak
flavor and tannin.
OXYGEN (OXIDIZE) - Oxygen is a gas that readily combines with wine and
chemicals, in most cases causing a bad reaction. When combined with wine, the
wine oxidizes, may take on a brown color, and will deteriorate the wine. There
are several ways to reduce wine from oxidizing, use of ascorbic acid, carbon
dioxide for topping off the carboy, using SO2, metabisulfite or campden tablets
will help reduce wine from oxidizing. There are other ways too complex for this
general information. When oxygen mixes with chemicals, it generally reduces the
strength of the chemicals, causing them to be less effective. Try to keep oxygen
away from chemicals by keeping the cap tight.
PECTIC ENZYME - Use when starting wines. Helps break down pulp and clears
pectic haze. Helps extract color from grapes and fruit. This has been a powder
in the past but is now coming in a liquid form. If you have the powder, use
2-1/2 tsp. per 5 gallons. The liquid may differ in drops per gallon, so read
instructions. Use the recommended amount when making recipes.
POLYCLAR - Fining agent. Reduces tannins. Helps reduce some browning. Use 1-3
gr./gal 1 tsp.=.9gr 1/4 oz liquid to 5 gallons
POTASSIUM BICARBONATE - Used to reduce acid in wines or must. Works well with
cold stabilizing. 1 tsp=6.1gr.
POTASSIUM BITARTRATE (CREAM OF TARTER) - Promotes better cold stabilization
at higher temperatures. Use 3.4 gr./gal or 1 tsp per gal. and stir hard for 0.1%
acid reduction.
POTASSIUM METABISULFITE 57% SULFUR DIOXIDE (SO2) - Use at start of must, at
each racking and at bottling. Do not add while under fermentation. Prevents
molds and bacteria. Helps prevent oxidation. Used to clean and sterilize wine
bottles. It has a limited shelf life. Add 1/4 tsp. to 5 gallons wine for
50-75ppm mixture.
POTASSIUM SORBATE - A yeast inhibitor which keeps wine from refermenting
after sugar is added at bottling. Keep from light. Shelf life about 1 year. To
be used with potassium metabisulfite. Use 2-1/2 tsp. to 5 gallon.
RACKING - The process of removing wine from the sediment. This is generally
done by siphoning the wine, leaving the sediment behind. The first racking
should be when the specific gravity is about 1.010-1.005. Rack from the primary
fermentor into the secondary fermentor. After that, racking should be done after
the wine has cleared 3 weeks or 1-2 weeks after adding Sparkolloid. As a rule,
add 1/4 tsp. metabisulfite to the wine at each racking.
SPARKOLLOID - Good general fining agent. Hot mix. Mix with water and boil
about 30-45 minutes. Add water as needed. Mix with wine while hot. Wine should
clear in about 1-2 weeks. May not be desired in some red wines. Use 1 tsp per
gallon.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY - Ratio of mass of liquid to mass of distilled water. Scale
on hydrometer used to measure the sugar content or sweetness of the juice or
wine.
SUGAR - If juice has a low brix, it should be brought up before starting
fermentation. This can be done by adding sugar. Add 1.5 oz sugar per gallon to
increase brix 1 degree. Add 7.5 oz or about 1/2 lb sugar for 1 degree brix
increase in 5 gallons. 5 lbs sugar will increase brix about 10.7 degrees. These
figures are approximate. Measure with a hydrometer.
SUGAR SYRUP - Used to sweeten before bottling. 2 parts sugar to 1 part water.
Heat mixture to make a syrup consistency and let cool completly before adding. Be sure to add POTASSIUM SORBATE to
sweetened wine.
TANNIC ACID (GRAPE TANNIN) - Tannin is found naturally in grapes and is made
from powdered grape skins. Tannin is needed in apple, and some whites. Use
1/4-1/2 tsp. per 5 gallon.
TARTARIC ACID - This is most the predominate acid in grapes. It is the most
stable acid, adding for flavor, color and stability. Use when making fruit
wines. 1 tsp = 4.8 gr.
TOPPING OFF - Reducing open space in the carboy by adding wine, water, CO2,
or even marbles will reduce space where oxygen could get to the wine. Topping
off with water will dilute wine. Before topping off any wine, seek advice from
winemaker or your local brew shop.
YEAST - Wine yeast is specially developed for making wine. Several types of
wine yeasts are available, each produce a desired effect in the wine. Wine yeast
is more tolerant of SO2 then is wild yeast.
YEAST NUTRIENT - Used to aid the yeast growth when fermenting. Urea and
di-ammonium phosphate are two types of nutrient. Qty depends on nutrient type
used.
DESIRABLE ACIDITY IN WINES
WINE ACIDITY
Dry white table .65-.75%
Dry red table .60-.70
Sweet
white table .70-.85
Semi-sweet table .65-.80
Sherriers .50-.60
Sparkling same as similar table wine
Ports same as semi-sweet table wine
Fruit same as similar grape table wine
Back to Top
|
