Wine Making Supplies and Beer Making Supplies for Home Brewers and Vintners
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Wine making supplies and beer making supplies for home wine making and home beer brewing. We stock only quality winemaking supply and beer making supplies for your wine cellar or beer cave. Located in Elkhart Indiana just outside of Goshen, South Bend, DeMotte, Indianapolis and Chicago. Shop online 24 hours a day or at our retail store in Elkhart, Indiana. Click for current hours and directions. Use our great selection of high quality wine making equipment and beer making equipment, wine making kits, beer making kits and everyday supplies for making your favorite homebrew and homemade wine. Wine kits and beer kits at everyday low prices. Wine making kits, beer making kits , wine corks, wine bottles, beer bottles and more in stock and ready to ship today. Cheers and Salute from Quality Wine and Ale Supply.

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COMMON EQUIPMENT:
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  • WineMaker Mag
    Competition Results
  • FAQ Q & A's


    Click any subject to 'jump' to it:
    SULFITES - THE FACTS
    PROPERLY PREPARING WINE CORKS
    INVERTED SUGAR IN BEER MAKING
    HOPS RHIZOMES
    RACKING and FINING WINE
    PRESERVING OPENED WINE
    IS WINE YEAST NECESSARY
    PROPER ACIDITY FOR WINE
    ARE YEASTS GLUTEN FREE
    WHY DOES MY WINE SMELL LIKE ROTTEN EGGS
    SECOND RUN AND FALSE WINES
    YEAST ENZYME / YEAST ENERGIZER


    SULFITES - THE FACTS
  • Question: I would like to make a sulfite free wine, is it possible?
  • Answer: Thank you for you question. Many people have concerns about sulphites. Please read the following article from the manufacturer of our wine kits, Brew King. It should answer your questions and calm any concerns you may have. Please take time to read this article in it's entirety. Salute!

    Potassium Metabisulphite is a stable source of sulfite in winemaking. The use of sulfur compounds is not a recent innovation. The butch shipping companies popularized the use of sulfur in the 16th century by refusing to ship any wines not treated. They insisted on the use of sulfites because the treated wines were the only ones that survived a long sea voyage without spoiling. Sulfites work by releasing free sulfur dioxide, which inhibits yeast, mould and bacteria. It does this in two ways: one, it kills some of the organisms outright, and two, it blocks the surviving organisms ability to reproduce. If your winemaking equipment is physically clean and you’ve rinsed it with a sulfite solution, nothing will grow on it. Sulfites are also added directly to wine after fermentation, to help prevent oxidation. Oxidation in wine follows the same pattern that you see in the cut edge of an apple, the wine turns brown and takes on a flat ‘cardboard’ taste. Sulfur binds with the oxygen in the wine and prevents this damage. Many people worry that they may be allergic to sulfites. True sulfite allergies are very rare. It’s more likely that they have been exposed to a high level of sulfites in the past. In the 1970’s restaurants would douse their salad bars with 2000 PPM (part per million) sulfite solutions in order to keep the produce fresh. Mixing this with acidic foods, such as salad dressings or vinegar, would cause the salad to release clouds of sulfite gas, provoking unpleasant reactions. What most people describe as a sulfite headache is a reaction to bio-amines. These are compounds formed in wines for various reasons, one of the commonest being malolactic fermentation in the presence of sugar. Some commercial wineries start malolactic inoculation before the end of alcohol fermentation, guaranteeing the formation of bio­amines. Since wine kits don’t go through malolactic they do not form bio-amines, and consequently don’t provoke allergic reactions.

    Some facts that might clear up any misunderstanding about sulfites:
    • Sulfites are a recognized food additive. The federal government controls their use.
    • All commercially available wines contain sulfites, even those labeled ‘Kosher ‘or ‘Organic’. The legally allowable amount in British Columbia, where Brew King kits are made is 70 PPM.
    • Nearly all dried fruits and meats contain sulfites. Raisins, for instance, have up to 2~0 PPM. Frozen orange juice, bacon, dried noodles, all contain sulfite.
    • The amount of sulfite provided in Brew King kits will result in a level of between 15 and 30 PPM in a finished wine.
    • All grape-based wines produce sulfites naturally during fermentation, up to a level of about 10-PPM. Even with no addition of sulfites, wines will still contain them.
    This is not to say that sulfites are totally benign. People with asthma or emphysema should avoid inhaling sulfite powder or the gas that comes off the prepared solution. It can act as a bronchial constrictor, aggravating any breathing problems. Also, adding extra sulfites to wine is of no benefit, as it can spoil the flavor, giving it a ‘burnt match’ smell. It’s important to follow directions for sulfite additions. The upshot of sulfite use is this: without sulfites you’d have to be very careful to keep all of your equipment sanitary and you’d still have to drink your wine quickly, before it spoiled, probably within one or two months. A final, but very important consideration is that if you insist on leaving out the sulfite from your wine kit, you must also leave out the sorbate. Sulfite suppresses malolactic bacteria, but sorbate does not. Without any sulfite to prevent malolactic fermentation, the bacteria will convert the sorbate into hexadienol, producing a stupendously horrible aroma of composting geraniums and rotting trout. Not a good thing for wine!

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    PROPERLY PREPARING WINE CORKS
  • Question: We have just bottled our first batch of wine and had some trouble with the corks. They seemed to be very dry and crumbly. What can we do about this and how can we be sure to have better corks for the next batch?
  • Answer: Thank you for you question. Please see some instructions for preparing corks below. The very least you should do is crush one Campden tablet, mix with warm water and then pour enough over corks to cover. Let set for a couple of hours or so and then cork your wine. Twin handle corkers are tricky and require some practice. Hope the following helps also. Getting a little bit of broken cork in the wine may not be avoidable without a floor or bench corker.
    "Traditional Corks" are traditional in that the cork is harvested from the cork tree. This harvest does not harm the tree and is also done at prescribed intervals to keep the tree healthy and productive. The variations seen in the corks are natural and should be expected in a natural product. They may be inserted using a single lever metal corker or a floor corker.

    "Premium Corks" are hand selected high quality corks and may or may not have an imprint on them (depending upon the supplier). They may also be a composite of natural cork with a synthetic top and bottom attached or a piece of natural cork cut against the grain attached to each end to provide a better seal.

    All corks containing natural material need to be soaked in water before using. This softens them, making them flexible and easier to insert. One recommended method for preparation is:
    1. Boil a quantity of water, and allow to cool. Put corks into a container, pour the water on top of them, and let it sit for 24-48 hours. Be sure the corks are completely submerged. Tupperware works good.
    2. 30 minutes prior to bottling, drain off the water, and add a sterilent such as a potassium metabisulfite or crushed campden tablet solution. Again, make sure the corks are submerged. Let set for 15 minutes. They do not need to be drained or dried before inserting into the bottle.
    3. After bottling, keep the bottles upright for 24 hours, to let any trapped air escape, then put on their sides for storage.
    Good Luck and Salute!

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    INVERTED SUGAR IN BEER MAKING
  • Question: Would using "inverted" table sugar be a good/cheaper alternative to corn sugar in my beer brewing?
  • Answer: Thank you for you question regarding inverted table sugar. Our readings do indicate inverted sugar can be used for beer brewing. However, the inverted sugar should be no more than 20% of your total fermentables, else your beer is likely to get the "cidery" taste. To answer the second part of your question, yes, it is less expensive in small quantities. In larger quantities, the made-yourself inverted sugar and the corn sugar are similar in price. Quality Wine and Ale Supply can order 1, 4, or 50 pound bags of corn sugar for you.
    To make invert sugar syrup:
    Ingredients:
    8 pounds of cane/beet sugar
    2 pints water
    1 tablespoon citric acid
    Directions:
    1. Mix all ingredients in a large pot and heat to boiling (the mixture will foam, then turn a clear, golden color)
    2. Cool and dilute in water to 1 gallon.
    (NOTE: 1 pint of this inverted sugar equals 1 pound of granular sugar)

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    HOPS RHIZOMES
  • Question: Do you have any recommendations on purchasing hops rhizomes? Thanks.
  • Answer: Here's a link where you can purchase hops. http://www.freshops.com/. You should know, if you don't already, that hop plants can grow to heights of 20-30 ft. so they require a sturdy trellis network.

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    RACKING and FINING WINE
  • Question 1: We are looking for more information on what is Racking and Finings. My wife and I are first time wine makers with about 15 Mulberry trees around us on our property. We are just looking for some help.
  • Question 2: What does "Racking and finings as per normal" mean in some recipes? I have an acre or so of blackberry, and I would like to make some tastey wine!
  • Answer: Thanks for writing. When you siphon one container of wine into another LEAVING BEHIND most sediments (lees) in the original container this is called RACKING. This operation is NORMALLY done 2-3 times to help clear the wine of suspended and settled particles and to keep it from sitting on top of excessive sediments which may give it an off flavor and bouquet. Finings are used to "trap and hold" suspended particles in wine, making them heavy enough to sink to the bottom. Also, finings make suspended particles stick together by positive/negative action, thus making them bigger, so they are easier to trap in a filter if you use one. Fining is done shortly before bottling and may have a very minor effect flavor and bouqet. Follow package instructions carefully for best results. Isinglas is popular as a fining for white wine and Chitosan is very good for reds. Both are very inexpensive and worth the extra time involved. Some wine makers use geletin finings and have had good luck also. Many winemakers though, just let the settlings sink to the bottom on their own and rack more often to get wine clear. That was good enough for our grandparents but serious winemakers use finings or a filter or both.

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    PRESERVING OPENED WINE
  • Question: I have , 9 x 1-3/4 corks and they seem too large for average wine bottles. I soak them over night and they go in alright, but once you open the bottle you can't get them back in if you have some wine left over. What do you recommend?
  • Answer: #9 x 1-3/4 corks are very popular and excellent for wines you plan on keeping in the bottle for up to 3 years or so. You can use a #8 x 1-3/4 and they will be easier to insert and remove but they are only recommended for bottling of 6 months or less and will not re-insert very well either, as corks expand! You also only need to soak your corks for about 15 minutes in warm water mixed with a crushed Campden tablet. After 15 minutes, rinse the corks and insert. The real problem for the wine after opening is AIR, which is let in when you first open the bottle. For this problem our recommendation is for you to purchase an inexpensive Vacuum Wine Saver Kit. You can find one at www.homebrewit.com in the "Corks, Corkers, Corkscrews, Shrink Capsules" section. It's less then $15.00 and should serve you and your wine well. It pumps out the air keeping the wine fresh and untainted and is the best way to preserve a partial bottle of wine. Good luck and Salute!

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    IS WINE YEAST NECESSARY
  • Question: From what I have read it seems that grapes have a natural yeast within. Do other fruits such as blackberries have this yeast or must one add wine yeast?
  • Answer: Thanks for writing. It's not the fruit itself that has "natural yeast within" but the airborne wild strains of yeast naturally all around us. They stick to and feed on sugar type products to live and then die. Don't forget that yeasts are living organisms feeding on sugary substances and producing alcohol and CO2. You do not have to add wine yeast to make wine BUT your chances of making a good wine are GREATLY improved by doing so. What you try to do is kill off the wild yeast strains which can produce anything, largely out of your control, from cider to vinegar and replace it with a well developed and tested wine yeast strain that can tolerate high sulfur dioxide and alcohol levels. Your results are more predictable and controllable. Some yeast strains have a higher "killer factor" to combat wild strains then others. (See charts on FAQ/Help page). Also, the CO2 developed during fermentation is very important as the CO2 bubbles capture the solid particles of the must and rise them to the top where the bubble burst and the solid particles float back to the bottom. This action keeps the must working adding color and flavor and ensures that the yeasts are well fed. Also the air allowed into the must by this bubbling action, during this primary stage of fermenting, seems to help the yeast stay vigorous because of the slight oxidation taking place.

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    RECOMENDED ACIDITY IN WINE
  • Question: What is the proper acidity (TA) for wine?
  • Answer: Below are general guidelines that have long been accepted as "ballpark" territory for proper acidity of wines. These numbers reflect the total, titratable acids, or TA, as a percentage by volume.
  • Dry White Grape Wines............0.65-0.75%
  • Sweet White Grape Wines........0.70-0.85%
  • Dry Red Grape Wines................0.60-0.70%
  • Sweet Red Grape Wines............0.65-0.80%
  • Sherry Grape Wines...................0.50-0.60%
  • Non-Grape White Wines...........0.55-0.65%
  • Non-Grape Red Wines...............0.50-0.60%

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    ARE YEASTS GLUTEN FREE
  • Question: My wife will never enjoy a beer again unless I find gluten free ingredients for home brew. She doesn't desire good beer, she just desires some beer. Unfortunately, yeast needs to be looked at due to the possibility of being grown on a bread stratum. Can you help?
  • Answer: We received an answer to your question on gluten in yeast from a major manufacturer and it is as follows:
    There is no gluten content in any of our products. This apparently is of great concern to wine ... (and ale) yeast users, and I am told, following a consult with my superiors, that this question pops up about once a month amongst ... yeast users. .... If there is anything else I can help you with, please don't hesitate to ask! Cheers! Rob Moline, Lallemand.
    Lallemand is the manufacturer of the brands "LALVIN" wine and "DANSTAR" beer yeast, so we believe it is safe to use either of these brands for gluten free recipes.

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    WHY DOES MY WINE SMELL LIKE ROTTEN EGGS
  • Question: My wine must smells like sulpher or rotten eggs and my S.G. dropped from 1.05 - 1.00 overnite! What's went wrong?
  • Answer: It is VERY likely that nothing too troubling is going on. The yeast may have gotten overheated and finished the fermentation very quickly. In this case you would see some smell produced, specifically hydrogen sulphide being a by-product of the dysfunctional yeast metabolism. The best thing to do would be to rack the wine off of the lees (settlings) and give it a whacking good stir to incorporate air into the mix. This will bind with the sulphides and remove the stink. After that, proceed as normal. This normally does the trick and removes the sulpher smell.

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    SECOND RUN AND FALSE WINES
  • Question: Do you have a recipe for making a second batch of wine reusing the pulp? I've heard you can do that. Thank you
  • Answer: Second Run Wines are also known as False Wines. A second run wine is an economical way to extend the use of your red grape must. No matter how efficient you are at pressing, the compacted mass of grape skins (also called pomace) still has plenty of color and grape flavor. There are three ways to go about producing your second run. The most traditional (and cheapest) is to follow a simple recipe for adding sugar, water, acid, and yeast energizer to the grape skins and then treat the resulting mass as freshly crushed grapes, handling them in exactly the same way you did the first run. Note that there is no need to add yeast, as the pomace will contain more than enough live yeast to start fermenting immediately.
    The recipe is as follows: for every two gallons of juice you extracted from your first pressing, add;
    • 1 Gallon (4.5 litres) cold water
    • 2 lb. (1 Kg.) of white table sugar
    • 2 teaspoons (10 g.) tartaric acid
    • 2 teaspoons (10 g.) yeast energizer
    This recipe will result in a light bodied wine, which will be ready to drink quickly, while the first run is ageing.

    The second and perhaps simplest way to make a second run is to purchase bulk grape juice from your supplier and use that in place of the sugar water mixture. Usually the best choice will be the cheapest red, bourgeron or a blend. This is more expensive than the first choice but the wine will be considerably better and will show more ageing potential.

    The third and undoubtedly the best way to make a second run is to make it at the same time as the first. To do this you will need to determine how much first run juice you are getting: this will amount to about two gallons (eight litres) of wine per case of grapes. You should then purchase bulk grape juice to make up exactly half of that amount and mix it straight into your crush. You don't have to press twice this way and all of your wine will be of first run quality. Grape juice of the same type as the grapes you chose will give you the best quality, but burgundy juice will also work very well. Although this is again not as cheap as the sugar water method, prices on varietal grape juices tend to run about half of the price per litre of wines made from fresh grapes. You stretch your budget and increase the quality of your second run at the same time.

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    YEAST ENZYME / YEAST ENERGIZER
  • Question: Is yeast enzyme and yeast nutrient the same and can they be used in the same way for preparing wine must before adding yeast? Also, what is yeast enzyme and yeast nutrient chemicals made from?
  • Answer: They are not the same to our knowledge. In fact our winemaking references, do not mention anything about yeast enzyme. Yeast energizer is made up of minerals, nutrients, and vitamins. Its composition is:
    Diammonium phosphate 87.7%
    Nutritional yeast 7.8%
    Magnesium 0.4%


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